Help
Care & Durability
Keep your leather and laces looking good, and know what's normal.
Condition lightly
Only when the leather looks dry. Less is more.
Re-wax laces yearly
About once a year keeps waxed laces tidy.
Untie before pulling
Yanking laced boots off is the top cause of snapped laces.
90-day defect promise
If something fails in normal wear, I make it right.
Leather goods: kilties, belts, wallets, straps
- Conditioner: I use Bick 4 because it doesn't darken leather. Apply a thin coat with a soft cloth only when the leather looks or feels dry, and wipe off the extra. More isn't better, and wallets rarely need it: the oils from your hands condition them for years.
- Getting wet: blot it, let it dry at room temperature away from heaters and direct sun, then condition once it's fully dry.
- Light scratches and scuffs: on oiled and pull-up leathers, rub the spot with your fingertip or the back of a spoon in small circles. The warmth works the oils back in and most marks fade.
- White haze on a new belt: that's wax from the tannery (a "bloom"), common on bridle leather. Buff it with a soft cloth or your hand and it works into the leather.
Specialty leathers
- Shell cordovan: brush it with a horsehair brush to bring back the shine. If it water-spots, let it dry, then buff. Skip heavy conditioners.
- Horsebutt and oiled leathers: treat them like smooth leather, with something gentle like Bick 4.
- Kudu and waxy leathers: the waxes come to the surface and lighten over time. That's part of the look.
- Suede and roughout: use a suede brush; skip creams and oils.
Waxed cotton laces
- Wipe off dirt with a damp cloth and let them dry.
- New waxed laces can shed a little wax at first. It settles down after a few wears.
- About once a year, rub in a little lace or leather wax to refresh the finish.
- Waxed cotton laces have finished tips and can't be cut shorter.
Leather laces
- Honestly, just wear them. I've never conditioned my own leather laces, and they get better with use. Tan rawhide starts stiffer; a little conditioner speeds up its break-in. Never put leather laces in a dryer.
- They can be cut to length with sharp scissors once they're laced and tied. An aglet crimper kit gives cut ends a clean tip.
- Leather is a natural material: a lace can have a weak spot in the hide that's hard to see. If one snaps in normal wear within 90 days, I replace it.
Helping laces last
- Untie before you pull your boots off. Yanking a laced boot off strains the lace right at the eyelet.
- Check your speed hooks. A sharp or burred edge on a hook or eyelet can cut a lace over time; if laces keep fraying at the same spot, that's usually why.
- Pick the right width. A lace that's too thick for the eyelets wears faster. Each listing shows its width.
| What you see | What it means |
|---|---|
| Color lightens where the leather bends | Normal: pull-up leather does this, and it evens out with wear. |
| White haze on new bridle leather | Normal: wax bloom. Buff it in. |
| Small scars, wrinkles or color shifts | Normal: natural marks of real hide. |
| New waxed laces shed a little wax | Normal: it settles after a few wears. |
| A lace snaps in normal wear | Tell me: within 90 days, I replace it. |
| Stitching comes loose | Tell me: on wallets, belts and watch straps, I repair it free. |
| A finish flakes or peels | Tell me: within 90 days, I replace or refund it. |
Repairs
I repair wallets, belts and watch straps for free. Message me with a photo first. You ship it to me, and I ship it back at my cost.
